Agaete, Gran Canaria

A welcoming and generous community in the Canaries.

Agaete, Gran Canaria
The magnificent Playa de Guayedra with the port of Agaete in the distance.

The town of Agaete is a centuries-old seafaring village and port on the northwest coast of Gran Canaria – an island that, along with its seven largest siblings, anchors the Canary Islands, the autonomous Spanish territory on a volcanic archipelago 100 kilometers west of Morocco.

Puerto de Las Nieves, the waterfront district of Agaete.

For generations, Agaete's economy has been dominated by agriculture, commercial fishing, and its role as a port of trade. Through the diligence and vision of some outstanding people, it also has become a destination for remote workers and digital nomads eager to build community and connect with kindred spirits.

Though only 30 kilometers from the capital city of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, the bus ride out takes more than an hour, owing to the narrow, swaying roads and the fifty – FIFTY!! – stops it makes en route.

What's the rush? Enjoy the view.

Agaete does not have a volume of tourism on par with Las Palmas or Santa Cruz de Tenerife, which is an eighty-minute ferry ride to the northwest. Some locals speak assorted levels of English, but many others do not. Even if learning Spanish on the fly, things are manageable for curious students or those making an effort. "Spanglish" can be effective, if only to convey that you don't know much of anything. Humans aren't that different, no matter where you are, and we find a way to communicate.

Canarians are really good folks.

Intrepid cats roam the dockside promenade, unafraid of people, each other, or a three-story fall. They eat well and are known to the locals. One of these gatos, taking a golden-hour stroll along someone's roofline, paused to glare down at a car that had stopped mid-block – a violation of traffic rules and, evidently, the feline sense of order. After a brief standoff, the car disappeared around a corner, as did the cat behind a drying bedsheet. Order restored.

Watching your every move.

Houses and restaurants alike are carved into the mountains because you build where you are. One patio-style Mexican eatery sits on a hillside at modest elevation and has, by now, grown used to the coastal breeze that carries napkins, appetizers, and carefully arranged hairstyles into the North Atlantic air.

Margaritas para todos!

The glory of its natural environment is Agaete's longest-serving partner. La cola de dragón, or "dragon's tail," is a coastal ridge to the southwest of town, and it is impossible to believe anyone could tire of its backdrop.

Amazing.

Natural pools along the shoreline attract those looking to cool off, show off, or take it all off. Packed and lively during the day, they are perhaps best enjoyed at dawn or dusk, when the sound of the ocean and magnificence of the view more readily command the senses.

Salt water heals the soul, but you'll need a shower afterward.

It takes fifteen minutes on foot to journey from the port to the village's central district, a compact, vertical arrangement of buildings of similar style which nonetheless stand out from each other.

Symmetry is delightful.

Residents gather to eat, drink, and dance for any reason at all. Civic anniversaries. Historical commemorations. Tuesday afternoons. Not satisfied with its signature multi-day festival in August, the town stages a "pre-festival" a week earlier that could fool the unfamiliar into thinking it was the real thing. If 6,000 people live in Agaete, all but five or ten seemed to participate — and con mucha energía across the board.

Party time.

Final thoughts: When we step out of the boundaries of what we know and opt for the unfamiliar road, we can see incredible things. Not because those things are unique on their own, though they may be, but because they're unique to us.

People, places, events, surroundings, and community are some of the variables that blend together into singular and unrepeatable experiences. Yet there's no limit to how many times you can do it, which is just fantastic.

Meeting new friends from regions unseen, mauling the integrity of a foreign language, or lurching through darkness in a Spanish industrial field as Google Maps turns to dust before your eyes. Life is made of small moments like these. (Credit for the phrasing.)

Agaete has much to offer because it is willing to give what it has. And places like this – places that are worthy and welcoming and generous – are all around us, if we are open to finding them.